Takase: Fine Japanese Calligraphy

VIII. FAMOUS LOCAL FOODS

Just as there are characteristic foods in every country, there are countless local foods in our country. I shall now explain a few of them here.

EDO FOODS (Tokyo Foods)

1. Unagi-no-Kabayaki (Eels broiled with soy, sugar and sweet saké)

Roasted eels form a dish that was developed in Tokugawa Period (1615–1867). First the bones are removed, and the head cut off. Then the eel is impaled on a green bamboo skewer and broiled on both sides, after which a thick and tasty sauce is poured over it and it is roasted and eaten hot.

2. Tempura (Fritters)

Tempura is a characteristic dish of Japan made by dipping fish or shrimps or shell-fish in batter and frying in deep gingelly oil or torreya oil. Recently, salad oil has also been used.

Tempura is eaten with grated radish in a tasty sauce made of dried bonito stock, sweet saké and soy. The grated radish is to help to digest the fat as well as to serve as flavour.

3. Sukiyaki, Chicken or Beef

Sukiyaki is a simple food with a natural flavour made by putting thin slices of chicken or beef into a shallow pan with Japanese onions, broiled bean-curd, shirataki (devil’s-tongue starch-paste vermicelli), and

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Black-and-white photograph of a person from the chin down, seated at a dark table in a pale jacket, a striped tie and a pale shirt, holding chopsticks reaching into a rectangular box with one hand and a round bowl held up at the right with the other. Long strips lie side by side in the box. On the table in front are a small dish with pieces, a cup, and the rim of a round plate at the left. — *Unagi-no-Kabayaki* (upper)

Black-and-white photograph taken from above of a round pot with two handles on a round stand, set on a tray, with pale and dark items in it; chopsticks held by a hand reaching in from the right lift a piece from it, and another hand holds chopsticks at the top. At the lower right a wide round platter holds flat slices with streaks. A small round bowl at the lower left holds a round pale shape, and a pair of chopsticks lies on a rest at the front. — Beef *sukiyaki*

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Black-and-white photograph of three people seated side by side at a round table with a patterned top, each wearing a large white bib over the clothes. The one at the left has a small stick at the mouth, the one at the center has dark curly hair and holds chopsticks up to the mouth, and the one at the right has pale wavy hair, wears a dark jacket under the bib and reaches across the table with chopsticks toward the dishes. A latticed railing shows behind them, and small dishes and cups stand on the table. — Charlie Chaplin, well-known *tempura* gourmet (upper)

Black-and-white photograph taken from above and at a slant of a large round tray with a ridged edge, on a dark plain ground. On it lie, at the left, several rows of curled striped pieces; at the top center a pile of small pale cubes; at the right center a long flat piece with a pale strip down its middle; and at the far right a few pieces with ragged edges. — sea foods for *tempura* course

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then cooking them in a sauce made of sweet saké, soy and stock. It is a great favourite with young moderns.

4. Awabi-no-Fukurani (Ear-shell)

Ear-shells are found plentifully in the seas outside Tokyo Bay and are most delicious in May, June, July and August, when the meat is taken from the shell, thoroughly washed, and boiled in water. When they have been boiled soft, they are seasoned with sugar, a little soy and sweet saké, and are prized for their delicate flavour.

5 Chawanmushi, also called Keiranmushi (Steamed egg custard)

Chawanmushi is cooked in a characteristically Japanese bowl with a lid. First, chicken or duck is put into the bowl, then vegetables of the season. In spring, lily bulbs and young peas in the pod, and in the autumn, mushrooms, chestnuts, trefoil and gingko nuts are added. Egg thinned with dried bonito stock is poured in, and the bowl is steamed in a steaming basket until the custard thickens. It is a dish specially suitable for ladies.

6. Sushi (Vinegar-spiced rice)

Sushi has been made in many ways since olden times and is prized by rich and poor alike. Boiled rice is first flavoured with vinegar and salt; then, after it cools, raw fish or shell-fish pickled in vinegar and salt, to which shrimp or omelette is added.

It is a cold food eaten as a light meal at noon, in lunches or between meals, like the sandwiches of the West. In recent times it has been served at buffet suppers and teas, and is consequently being prepared in all sorts of ways and shapes.

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Black-and-white photograph taken from above and at a slant of a flat dish with an irregular outline, a notch cut from the upper left corner, a triangle of scroll pattern at the left and a thin dark border line. At its center lies a small heap of pieces with sprigs of small leaves beside it, and a rounded dark item with fine lengthwise lines and a short pointed stalk and a pale patch near the stalk lies at the upper right. The dish stands on a grey ground. — *Awabi-no-Fukurani* (upper)

Black-and-white photograph taken from above of a round bowl with a pale ground and dark painted patches on its side, its lid tipped up at the right. The lid shows two round dark patches with white swirls on either side of a small round knob. In the bowl, in a pale creamy liquid, lie a few pale rounded blocks with two thin dark pieces across them. — *Chawanmushi*

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The famous sushi of Tokyo is nigiri-zushi (hand-moulded), but there are other kinds such as Osaka-zushi, cut in little squares, and sasaba-zushi, wrapped in dwarf-bamboo leaves.

There are, besides, such specially-made kinds as ayu-zushi, suzume-zushi, saba-zushi, etc.

SPECIAL FOOD OF ENOSHIMA

Sazae-no-Tsuboyaki (Turbo baked in the shell)

The shell-baked turbo of Enoshima near Tokyo is famous as a tasty food. (Its preparation is given under the Doll Festival.)

SPECIAL FOOD OF KAMAKURA

Kamakura Ebi-no-Onigarayaki (Lobster baked in the shell)

Kamakura lobsters are caught in the sea off Kamakura. They are cut into pieces about 1.6 ins. long with the shell on and boiled in dried bonito stock, sweet saké and soy until the shell is crimson. They are highly appreciated by gourmets.

SPECIAL FOODS OF KYOTO

The special foods of Kyoto are of many kinds, but I shall explain only two or three of the most famous.

1. Suppon (Snapping-turtle)

Even the greatest connoisseurs always find the snapping-turtle rare, and it is prized because of its fine flavour and because its nourishing qualities make people believe that eating it is conducive to long life.

The best snapping-turtles, or terrapin, come from

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Black-and-white photograph taken from above and at a slant of an oval dish with a flattened side and a dark inside, holding several pale pieces and a spiral roll cut across, with several short thin dark sticks standing at the back. At the left a small round dish holds dark liquid, with a slim paper sleeve printed with Japanese characters and small designs lying across it and the tips of a pair of chopsticks showing at one end. At the right a round cup with a flower pattern on its side holds dark liquid. — *Sushi* (upper)

Black-and-white photograph taken from above and at a slant of a rectangular dark board with a raised edge, on which lie two large jointed bodies, each with many thin legs and long thin feelers curving off at the left, among long narrow pointed leaves. — *Ebi-no-Onigarayaki*

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Lake Biwa, and those between three and six years old are considered most delicious. The Fūseirō at Sembon-nishi, Shimochōja-machi, Kyoto, is a famous old house founded in 1620, that serves only terrapin dishes.

Terrapin soup is served only at rather pretentious banquets.

2. Imobō (Taro and cod)

The imobō of Kyoto is a food dating from ancient times, made of red taro roots boiled with cod. It is a rare light dish of which you cannot eat too much. The Hiranoya in Maruyama Park is famous for this dish.

3. Nishin (Herring)

The Kyōsenryō at Kōdaiji is famous for its special herring dishes and knows the secret of removing the strong flavour from herring. As the herring is flavoured with egg-plant and seasoned with green-pepper, in both appearance and taste it is suited to the tea ceremony.

4. Tea Ceremony Collation

The best cookery of Kyoto may be said to be the tea ceremony collation, and the best tea ceremony collation, because the elegance of the house harmonizes with the flavour of the food, is that served at the Hyō-tei.

When the Crown Prince of Sweden came to Japan, he took the tea ceremony collation served at the Hyō-tei and it is said that he visited the house several times.

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The upper of two black-and-white photographs: a room with a plain wall above a low dark base, and a dark doorway at the left opening onto a garden with large lobed leaves and stones. A row of narrow upright slats shows at the top. At the right, several flat pale pieces on cords and a bundle of slender hanging pieces hang from a horizontal rod, with two large round flat woven lids, one leaning on a tall round-bellied jar, and a tub below. A low platform in front carries a round flat woven mat and, at its right edge, a small sculpted figure. — The Hyō-tei (upper) and the Hiranoya, both well-known restaurants, Kyoto

The lower of two black-and-white photographs: an entrance with a long hanging cloth curtain split in the middle, with large brushed Japanese characters in dark on both panels. At the left and right of the entrance stand fences of thin upright twigs bound with horizontal pale poles, with thatched eaves above and a small square sign hanging above the curtain. Pine needles show at the upper left and stones at the lower right. — The Hyō-tei (upper) and the Hiranoya, both well-known restaurants, Kyoto