Fine Japanese Calligraphy by Master Japanese Calligrapher Eri Takase


Fine Japanese Calligraphy
The Art of Master Japanese Calligrapher Eri Takase

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The Diplomas of Ryoma Elementary School

Satoi_00t.gif (3579 bytes)Every year the sixth graders of Ryoma Elementary School in Yoshino, Japan make their own diplomas. As befitting an important papermaking area, the student make their diplomas starting in the Kozo field. They cut the Kozo, strip off the bark, remove the outer bark, soften the inner bark, and so on until they have a diploma. This entire process requires almost a month to complete.

This tradition has been carried on every year for almost twenty years through the efforts of master papermaker Mr. Hiroyuki Fukunishi and Mr. Hirofumi Honsako (The kirigami on the left by Mr. Masaru Satoi, a teacher at Ryoma Elementary school, shows Mr. Honsako teaching the students one of the final steps of the papermaking process).

9712_0064t.jpg (7163 bytes)On the right is a Kozo field that belongs to Mr. Fukunishi. A similar field is owned by Ryoma Elementary School where the children cut the Kozo to be used in their diploma.

This particular field is about 11 plants x 11 plants. The distance between Kozo plants is about 1.5 meters. About 1/5 of this, or 24 plants were harvested by the students. These 24 plans will produce about 2.2 kg of dried Kozo which will produce about 100 diplomas.

This entire field provides only enough raw material for a few days of professional papermaking. One of the recurring themes of this article will be the vast effort required to make Washi. Perhaps 80% of the effort is in preparing the materials to make the paper. Forming the paper itself is only one small step.

Kozo does not have seeds, it is propagated through root cuttings. It takes about five years from the initial planting before the first harvest. After which Kozo can be harvested every year. The Kozo field on the right is about thirty years old and should be productive for another ten years.

Early in the season the Kozo plants are pruned so that only the best branches that are well spaced remain.

Kozo can be harvested any time after their leaves fall and before buds appear. Typically, the first thing after New Years is Kozo harvesting - depending on the weather this would be around January 10th. However, for the students this would be long after graduation, so they harvest the Kozo in late November (this year they did it on 11/29). Harvesting at exactly the right time will result in very easy separation of the bark after steaming (see next step).

Kozo prefers direct sun and damp soil. And like bamboo, one must be very careful otherwise the entire area surrounding the Kozo field will become a Kozo field.

To harvest Kozo, all of the branches are removed from the plant leaving perhaps 10 cm of stem. When cutting the Kozo, do not use a hatchet. One wants to be careful in the method of cutting so that next year's new growth will be correct and vigorous. To cut the Kozo properly one uses a tool like a knife with handles on each end that are perpendicular to the blade. Cutting from the bottom of the stalk upwards at an angle (pulling the tool towards you).

To prepare the stalks cut into lengths of 1.2 meters making sure to cut at an angle from the bottom of the plant towards the top. The actual length to cut the plans depends on the size of your steamer.

Finally, cut the branches off the main stalk very close to the stalk. Not doing this will cause problems when stripping the bark.

9712_0050t.jpg (6509 bytes)On the left, master papermaker Hiroyuki Fukunishi oversees the steaming of the Kozo bundles.

The barrel must be made of wood, not metal. Any wood will do. Stainless steel bands are fine, but at all costs avoid iron. A good substitute for the barrel might be to use wine barrels.

The basin is at about 8 inches deep and is made of aluminum, not iron (iron is bad - avoid it). The heat should be well distributed across the bottom of the basin in order to avoid hot spots and consequently excessive heating of only the bottoms of the stalks above the hot spot.

The length to cut the Kozo stalks was mentioned about to be 1.2 meters. This length is adequate for this particular setup and will vary depending on the depth of the basin and the height of the barrel. With this setup, the stalks of the Kozo come up to about the middle of the barrel.

The Kozo is steamed for about 2 hours (this includes about 1 hour to get the water boiling). A little longer may be necessary.

As a design issue, the barrel is up too high. If the brick enclosure were about half the height, it would be much easier to manipulate the barrel, the Kozo and to work the other steps involved.

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9712_0054t.jpg (7772 bytes) After stripping the bark, the Kozo is tied together for transport.

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9712_0056t.jpg (6854 bytes)Starting from the bottom, the outer black bark will be stripped from the inner white bark.

9712_0057t.jpg (5734 bytes)Using a razor, the outer black bark is easily stripped.

9712_0058t.jpg (8909 bytes)More than half of the material is the outer black bark which will be put to use, but not in making this paper.


9712_0059t.jpg (8390 bytes) The white Kozo is washed in the river.

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9712_0062t.jpg (6981 bytes)The Kozo will be left for the day.

9712_0063t.jpg (5878 bytes)The damage to the Kozo plant (the dark areas) are cause by the wind rubbing the stalks together. The Kozo fibers around these damaged areas will have to be removed. This is why each Kozo plant is pruned to minimize the chance of the stalks rubbing together and causing extra work when the bark must be cleaned and sorted.

9712_0020t.jpg (4943 bytes)The Kozo is pulled apart to test if it is ready. The fibers should pull apart rather easily. Perhaps this winter is too warm because the fibers are tough and need more boiling.

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9712_0025t.jpg (7028 bytes)These scraps are the damaged parts of the inner bark. Instead of being white and soft, these are scar tissue that is yellow and fibrous. Damage happens to the inner bark when the Kozo stalks are knocked or rubbed together repeatedly by the wind.

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9712_0031.jpg (18882 bytes)Beating the Kozo is a long and tiring process. Machines, including the Hollander, have not been made that can duplicate this process. The motion is not just downward, but as the beater strikes the fiber the beater is moved towards the body. This sliding action as the beater strikes the Kozo aids in separating the Kozo fibers.

9712_0032.jpg (18633 bytes)On the blackboard is a song that papermakers will sing while beating the fibers. This helps to maintain the beat and to take ones mind off of the long and labor intensive work.

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9712_0028t.jpg (6723 bytes)The Kozo is of black bark and specs. These would all have to be removed if we were making real Yoshino paper. For the diplomas, however, the Kozo will be placed in a Hollander and later bleached.

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9712_0035t.jpg (4968 bytes)The Kozo is obviously not ready, but the way to test is to place some in water and if the fibers separate and disappear, then the beating can stop.

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9712_0037t.jpg (5199 bytes)Using a "bouqet garni" of the berries, a dye material bath is prepared.

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9712_0045t.jpg (6615 bytes)The Kozo is dried in small clumps.

9712_0046t.jpg (5559 bytes)Clean-up for the winter so everything will be ready for next year.

9712_0047t.jpg (3773 bytes)Guides aid in aligning the keta so perfect posts can be formed.

9712_0049t.jpg (4299 bytes) The mould with the watermark for the diplomas.